Just before school started in early September, we took a mini-holiday to Girona, a city nestled in the heart of Catalonia and bordering the Pyrenees Mountains.
Famous today for its starring role in the hit show Game of Thrones, Girona is steeped in history dating back to Roman times. It is also at the heart of Catalunya’s independence movement, as well as a town popular with cycling enthusiasts. Girona also made it on our short list of potential cities when we were considering a move to Spain, so it was a location I’d been longing to see for quite some time.
This trip wasn’t our original plan. We were supposed to be in Asturias, exploring the Picos de Europa National Park, visiting Oviedo and Gijón, taking scenic mountain drives, and visiting towns only accessible by funicular.
In other words, I had an entirely different plan when the wildfires of this past summer threw a curveball. Unsure if the fires would subside by the time we were set to travel, I began canceling plans in Asturias about two weeks before our departure, just in time to avoid massive cancellation fees or a total loss.
Still desiring cooler temperatures (Valencia was in the last throes of the “Satan’s front porch” part of summer), I decided to pivot to the Pyrenees and base us in Girona.
I scrambled to put a plan together, eager for that last getaway before the school year began. Basically, I needed three things:
Accommodation
Transportation
A few activity ideas
Beyond that, I left the door wide open for anything interesting that crossed our paths. I hadn’t had much time to research the city or the area, so I leaned on ChatGPT to fill in the gaps.
After securing an aparthotel on the River Onyar with views of the colorful houses lining the river, I scheduled a car rental and worked from there.
Arriving in Girona felt a bit like traveling back in time. Our aparthotel was situated right off Rambla de la Llibertat, steps from the historic city center, shopping, and numerous cafés and restaurants. We also found ourselves right around the corner from the famous Pont de les Peixateries Velles (Eiffel Bridge), designed by Gustave Eiffel’s company before it worked on the Eiffel Tower in Paris.
My kids love ice cream, so one of the first orders of business in any city we visit is to find our go-to ice cream shop. I think it’s safe to say Chimney Cake Girona won the contest, but Rocambolesc Gelateria was a close second. (Note: Valencia does not have a Chimney Cake location, but it does have a Rocambolesc Gelateria inside Hotel Las Arenas.)
With ice cream procured, it was time to explore.
If you like to wander, Girona is your kind of town.
The city center is a maze of cobblestone streets, winding past centuries-old buildings and medieval walls. The Jewish Quarter, El Call, dates back to the 12th century and is one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Europe. I loved this part of town, following the cobblestones up narrow stairways past ancient doorways, wondering who lives there now and how many hundreds of people have walked those same steps before us.
El Call is also where we discovered crowds of tourists, cramming into the streets and nearly bumping into one another on the narrow paths.
Girona is small, and I’d say you could do the entire town in a couple of days. Knowing that it was meant to be our base, rather than our only destination, we ventured outside the city and into the mountains. I used ChatGPT to create a route with switchbacks and mountain views, similar to the route we drove in France during our trip along the Route Napoléon. (Scenic drives are my jam.)
The drive brought us right up to the French border, near the Vallter 2000 ski resort, which was closed but still offered panoramic views of the surrounding Pyrenees Mountains. As we walked around the resort grounds, we could hear cows with bells on their necks grazing away in the surrounding fields.
I’ve learned over the years that too much planning can turn into a not-very-fun trip. A crammed itinerary often means cranky kids and even grumpier parents. After our excursion into the mountains, we were due for a rest day. We decided to spend another day in Girona, exploring the city's sights and discovering more of the old town.
Will and I left the kids to sleep and rest, and we wandered into town, looking for a mini-adventure. First, we stopped at Espresso Mafia Coffee (thanks to Jonathan Hall for the recommendation) for breakfast and café con leche, which I highly recommend if you’re ever in Girona. After that, we had no plans, so we wandered into the old town until we stumbled upon Girona’s famous Muralles de Girona (medieval walls). Not knowing exactly what we were getting ourselves into, we walked up the steps to enter.
On top of the walls, you’ll see arrow slits all along the top, alongside stunning views of the surrounding area. The walls were quite busy with foot traffic, and from where we entered, we passed by the Arab Baths and Girona Cathedral, eventually ending our walk in a small garden next to the cathedral.
We returned to our aparthotel to pick up the kids, find some lunch, and take them out for more exploring. First stop: the cathedral. Will is a big fan of Game of Thrones, and he immediately recognized both the cathedral and the surrounding buildings from the show. During my research into this church, I discovered that it has the widest Gothic nave in the world. The building was dedicated in 1038, and construction was finally completed in the 18th century.
When they say it has the widest nave in the world, they aren’t kidding. It is spectacularly large. Photos don’t really do it justice. But perhaps my favorite part of this cathedral was the cloister. It was serene and nearly silent despite the mobs of tourists clamoring to get inside the cathedral.
Our last stop in Girona was the Arab Baths, nestled at the foot of the Girona Cathedral. Built in the Romanesque style, the baths blend influences from Roman baths, Arab baths, and Jewish mikvahs. There were several rooms to view, each with a particular purpose for those participating in the baths. It turned out to be a much more sophisticated system than we expected and a surprisingly interesting stop on our Girona wander.
Being so close to the Costa Brava, we would’ve been remiss not to take a drive down the coast. Starting in Roses, we made our way down to Cadaqués and Port Lligat, where the renowned painter Salvador Dalí spent a significant portion of his life. It’s not hard to see why this part of Spain would inspire artists. It is the quintessential picture of Mediterranean living, complete with the bright colors and sparkling waters. I could’ve easily spent two or three days in Cadaqués, wandering its picturesque streets.
When we initially arrived in Girona, the directions to our aparthotel weren’t totally clear. Google Maps doesn’t exactly warn you when you’re about to drive into the center of a medieval city with horse-drawn-carriage-width streets. In our mid-size crossover rental, we just baaaaaaarely squeezed through some of the roads, folding in side mirrors, gritting our teeth, and dodging pedestrians all the way. It was a hair-raising drive through town, but it was also one of our memorable experiences, where we caught our first up-close glimpse of Girona Cathedral, which Will immediately recognized.
Girona is a charming city with an über European vibe. I’m glad we didn’t move there for several reasons, but it was an awesome place to visit, and one I wouldn’t hesitate to return to again.
One note: Spanish is not the primary language in Girona. Catalan is, and you will hear it far more often than Spanish, although everyone does speak Spanish. Will went to Mercadona early one morning to gather some supplies when we first arrived, and he reported back that he wasn’t hearing Spanish in the store at all.
Catalonia itself feels very different from the other parts of Spain we’ve visited. It is undoubtedly its own culture, complete with its own language and distinct identity.
In the end, Girona wasn’t the trip I planned, but it was exactly the one I needed — a lesson in how life abroad keeps unfolding poco a poco.
Lovely! I love the idea of not over planning. Serendipity is part of the joy of a getaway like this. Bookmarking this for when I can eventually visit Girona.
I've had Google Maps send me the wrong way on roads in older parts of Portuguese cities or send try to send me on pedestrian-only streets. I've started using Waze when I'm driving in a new city, especially the older or historic parts, and using Google Maps for navigating between cities.
I spent a week in Girona in late Feb/early March and thoroughly enjoyed it. I also went to Cadaqués and took a day trip to Perpignan. I had been caregiving for a year and a half and just enjoyed the museums, walking around the city, working in cafes, going to flea markets, and eating pastries. My apartment overlooked the Roman walls and it was a great trip. I had been studying Catalan and wanted to stay in a city where Catalan is spoken.